
| The original Real Color Wheel painting 12-24-95, #816 was painted by me for artists like me painting on location. I found the colors in nature while painting. Nature uses perfect complements in it's every moment. All colors have complementary opposition colors, primary oppositions are the most striking.
Real Color Wheel Main Page. Use this RCW like a visual aid typewriter key board for color.
It records correct pigment oppositions for making dark colors with transparent paint or ink. It matches all colors in nature and how they shadow. Use it in Photography, Stage Lighting, Textile Dyeing and color coordinating. The RCW color wheel works, free pigment referenced 5x5 Zip with a CMYK EuroScale Coated profile. Use this profile in either the printer or the image. Not both. This is how it works with ink artists, 4 color printers and plotters. A plotter is a larger printer that sprays color as opposed to a printer that picks pigment up from another surface. A plotter is used in printing canvas giclees and is color accurate as any four color press. I have a Roland HiFi FJ52" Plotter. Here's what I did to this image. ![]() My painting was painted without black pigment. There is this short-fall in CMYK, it starts adding black into the value too early and loses color in the deep darks. I'm going to make some transparent yellow ink to use in the plotter. I increased Selective Black in the CMYK Proof Setup's Working Black Plate, and reduced the intensity of the black ink in the plotter with an ink adjustment. Then used the acrylic pigment's transparent opposition colors in thin washes to give the now lighter blacks some color instead of just black. It's amazing how similar it looks to my painting now. It seems black ink takes over making a pigment that is "painted darker with it's intensity hue only", let's say.. 3 coats of transparent magenta. So instead of having 300% magenta ink in the print, you have 100% magenta ink plus black to make it darker. One could lighten the black ink level and paint in the "darkened by intensity only" magenta colors with a brush. COLOR THEORY Printers and plotters use the Computer's RGB color wheel and convert it to the printer's CYMK color wheel. They look almost the same, but not exactly. It's better to change the RGB to CMYK and adjust the CYMK. It's best to convert a RAW image directly into CMYK. Printing any converted RGB profile has some printing problems. Intensely layered magenta isn't possible because the full depth of the pigments ink won't print with only one coat without effecting the rest of the print, even with the extra Light Magenta ink. CMYK adds black ink at this point. RGB prints what looks on the computer like a perfectly balanced color wheel, and shifts the cyan and magenta 30 degrees in the print. This expands the Green to Cyan range and shortens the Magenta to Red range. WHAT YOU SAW IS NOT WHAT YOU GOT.. on your printer. Also the printer will not print the higher RGB gamma ranges of color. The CMYK Real Color Wheel you see on your computer is what you will get on your printer or plotter. It looks much duller in comparison to higher gamma RGB realcolorwheel, but the CMYK is the gamma range that is possible and it is what the printed image will look like. The RGB color system has a much higher color gamut, much of high end color is lost in CMYK. Give the plotter a CMYK image and profile as opposed to giving the printer an RGB image of higher gamma and letting the printer/plotter convert it. It won't correct the color shift of magenta and cyan, that takes an original CMYK image. The newer plotters give more to play with, with as far as matching colors to a painting or photo. Longer ranges of colors can come into play. For instance, Cyan and Yellow pigment or ink must cover from cyan to yellow in both CYMK and RGB. That's 130 degrees plus the extra 30 degrees because of the RGB color shift. The colors between Green and Yellow are limited by at least 15 degrees. The new plotters give the option of adding another color to CYMK. An extra pre-made Green to mix with Yellow, that evens out the colors available to be reproduced in the green to yellow range. It's not perfect, but it can help. I didn't like it. The most useful combination of color in nature painting is green and a yellow/orange/red mixture. Green and Magenta make a neutral black from color, the shadow color of green.
My best reproductions are made with a CYMK image that has been worked on. An RGB image can be converted to CMYK closely in some respects by giving it first a sRGB profile then a ColorMatchRGB.icc profile before changing it into CMYK in the plotter. This will not correct the color shift of magenta and cyan though, that can't be corrected. ColorMatchRGB works as the profile if used in the plotter only also. As a CMYK image either the plotter or the image needs a profile to print with. One of them should have no profile. After this point it can be re-converted to RGB again if you wanted a gamma limited RGB. The "color shifted" RGB should now contain the "color shifted" CMYK colors with an sRGB profile. Here, in the image below are the CYMK RCW colors converted into RGB colors for your monitor. A browser won't view in CMYK. The colors look the same though, The original image was made in CMYK. A conversion change in this direction doesn't effect the CMYK colors and removes the color shift RGB has.
The four large color dots are only extra added colors for this example. They are unconverted RGB colors added to a CMYK image that has been converted to an RGB image and worked on. In these conversions the RGB keeps the same colors that were in the CMYK. Now I can add RGB colors to the existing CMYK colors. Yellow to red RGB colors are accurate but not the rest. They won't print accurately.. but I can add them for monitor viewing. This shows the printers problem. Those 4 corner color dots below can't be reproduced in print accurately, they are out of gamut. Only the spectrum in the inner CMYK colored color wheel will print accurately. The four outer colors won't.
Below is an RGB RCW color wheel, made on the computer by numbered ratios to match crystals as they get darker, these colors match the element's colors that the artist uses as pigment. Notice the RGB image is brighter and a higher gammut. 36 REAL COLOR WHEEL
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I have been working with a chemical company called Spectra Colors Corp. in my home State, N.J., 4-2-6, to provide my transparent yellow color. Spectracid Tartrazine 170 / Acid Yellow 23 / Azo / C.A.S#: 1934.21.0 / H:1 F:0 R:0 P:D / APR 25,2006 / Lot # T14976 / Scc Order # : 63305, is my choice. This is it, an Indian Yellow for plotters and artists. It is very permanent, never changing at all after 2 months in the hot Lahaina Sun, the ball point writing is gone. Ethylene Glycol added to the pigment made it waterproof ink when dry. As a water color add gum arabic and a little honey. To make an acrylic transparent yellow equal or better then PY153 dioxine nickel complex or PY108 Anthrapyrmidine, add some acrylic gel. The amount of water added to the pigment to print a cadmium yellow light is 1:9. In this image there are 3 cups of 1:9 mixtures, (they all look simular) this is the pigment and dilution I'm printing with. The two rows are two different pigments. Printing with full strength (1:1 with water) the ink printed a cadmium yellow medium hue color. 1:9 is what the plotter needs to bring it down to cad yellow light hue. All colors with yellow included in them are rich.
The yellow ink for printers/plotters is opaque today, and I found it prints weakly as a tint. Yes, IMHO the printing industry can use an upgrade.. So could our National Color Index, it's lacking because it's based on calling red, yellow and blue the primary colors of pigment. Saying red (which is made of yellow and magenta), is a the primary color and giving magenta a code like PR:122. That's Pigment Red #122 to the Color Index. Yes, the Yellow, Cyan, Magenta color wheel is accurate, not the red, yellow, blue colour wheel. Compare them. My color wheel adds to that, giving the ability to mix all opposite colors into a neutral black hue. This is a big problem today, because all of our State's School Standards are commanded to teaching the Red, Yellow and Blue as primary colors. Very sad. The cyan ink used also has a problem, it's not a pure cyan but rather a cyan hue that has a magenta side. I have ordered some manganese dry pigment from Old holland to make a truer hue and will test it as an ink when it arrives. This will probably solve the printer problem of making a good cyan printout.
The smallest square matches the primary cyan in this colorwheel.
![]() The small square is the color taken from the under-tone of cerulean. The smaller square is the larger square lightened. The color I want opaque and transparent should make this transition.
![]() Below: In this image the top two are pigment inks I print with on my plotter. The bottom left is Liquitex Thalo blue, the bottom right is has chlorinated phthalocyanine. It is the color I hoped I could get with manganese transparent. 3-1-8
1-22-7
![]() The lower two files are 1) RGB and 2) CMYK converted to RGB. They are graduated red to cyan. The same way pigments mix to black instead of light's color wheel where red and cyan mix to white. ![]() ![]() Below is what they look like printed in RGB and CMYK, RGB has a darker, bluer cyan printout then CMYK. Both have same red to dark gradation.
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