Water Color, 22x30, 300# Arches Cold Pressed
Kaupo Gap, Red Bromeliad, # 902
Day 1, I made the drawing with 10 mm
lead, very sparse, only important lines. Next I wet down the entire
paper with my 5 inch elephant ear sponge and waited until it had a dull
sheen. This is the most important painting time and you have to be quick
because now is when you can do all the major blends. I broke the painting
down into three areas. The top, middle and foreground. First I painted
in the top area and jumped down to the bottom foreground area. Than
I let everything dry. By doing this I can rewet the entire page again
and dried colors won't move. Now I painted in the middle ground and quit
for the day. 12:00 to 1:30. Tomorrow I will start earlier because there
were more shadows and contrast.
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Day 2, Still using my favorite
big brush, the #36 Robert Simmons, series 789, White Sable Goliath.
I got an 10:00 start today and worked the middle ground until 12:00.
Tomorrow should be a fun day. Today I got some of the darkest darks in.
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This is my w/c palette. Set up to keep my colors
clean.
Opposite colors are in the same well. There are 14 top warm well colors and 14 cool bottom wells. 
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Top Colors. Well #1 is a combination of Ult. Blue and Burnt Sienna. Well #2 combines Bocor's Venetian Red because it is on the warm side as opposed to some brands being cool and worthless, and Green Oxide. Well #3 contains two Grumbacher colors, Thalo Green and Thalo Purple. A much used combination for shadows in the middle and background. Well #4 contains Grumbacher Thalo Green and Grumbacher Thalo Crimson, Quinacridone Magenta will do fine. As long as the colors mix to a neutral gray. Well #5 is Grumbacher Thalo Violet. Well #6 is Grumbacher Thalo Crimson. Well #7 is Grumbacher Red. Well #8 is Grumbacher Vermilion Light . Well #9 is Cadmium Orange. Well #10 is Cadmium Yellow Deep. Well #11 is Cadmium Yellow. Well #12 is Bocor Cadmium Yellow, this is a dense opaque yellow, more so then all other brands. Well #13 is Winsor Yellow. Well #14 is Liquitex Lemon Yellow hansa. |
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I have two smaller paletts also, one with these colors and one set up for night painting. For a complete discription of these palette colors go here.
It's worth the time it takes to clean the palette each night. |
Bottom Row, Well #15 is Grumbacher Thalo Blue because I tested different brands and Grumbacher had the cleanest sky color. Well #16 is Thalo Purple. Well #17 is Liquitex Cobalt Blue. There is a lot of differences in cobalt blue among brands. Since it is an easy color to mix with transparents I have this bright Cobalt Blue as an opaque. Well #18 Talons has my choice of Ultramarine Blue. Well # 19 is Winsor Newton French Ultramarine Blue. Well #20 is Thalo Blue used on the yellow mixes. Well #21 is Talons Turquoise Blue. Well #22 Grumbacher Thalo Green b/s Well #23 is Grumbacher Emerald Green, a cool middle. Well #24 is Bocor Emerald Green, very dense and Liquitex Permanent Green Light. Both warm middle greens. Well #25 is three colors, Vermilion, Bocor Olive Green, Holbine Permanent Green #1. Well #26 is Talons Hookers Green Deep and Ultramarine Blue Deep. Well #27 Cadmium Orange Cadmium Yellow Medium. Well #28 Hansa Yellow and Grumbacher Yellow Green. |
Day 3, I'm trying to stay loose
while tightning up where I can. Today I switched to a W/N Series 7, #10,
I'll probably finish up with it. We had some rain lastnight and the foreground
is turning green :(
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Day 4, I have just about 100% coverage,
to me that means it's at least 1/2 finished. We had more rain last night.
That means I may have a green foreground instead of gold.
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