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I'm going to add a little titanium white to
every color. The first coat on the mortar was a titanium white, so I wouldn't see the gray the sand made. I found a subject, 2 Duracell Batteries They have the bunny inside so the fresco will last a long time :) No pre drawing, drawn on the fresco mortar from life using only three colors, titanium white and the RCW, my colorwheel. My painting brush is my blending brush, same color, with no extra water, blot it out until the plaster can't draw water or add water from the brush. Here is my test: To paint thinly and opaquely by always adding white titanium pigment, a little even in the deepest darks. No transparent washes. The paint consistency will be about as thick as milk, that's much thinner than the oil or acrylic consistencies of paint. Thicker than that won't absorb and won't allow a calcium carbonate coating. All the pigment must soak into the mortar. When you clean the brush in water, squeeze it dry and add lime water to the brush. Two much lime water takes too long to soak in. The three colors don't stain and stay in the the brush with the same tenacity, you must use soap and water before each major color change. Thalo Blue is hard to remove, you must use soap and water. I love fresco! It's so forgiving. Put down a color, put down another color to change it a few minutes later like you were painting on dry paint. The little specks of sand I didn't see bother me but what the heck, I started painting before the sheen was gone. Lime milk shrinks a little and it must have been hiding the specks in the extra lime that came to the top as I was smoothing down the top coat. Small problem :) Next time I'll wait until the sheen is gone, and I'll get a smoother surface also. The slight surface indentation in the top left is getting more pronounced, it was level, but level included some white lime paste/milk that I was bringing to the surface as I troweled. The better, harder, troweled to finished mortar makes the trowel sing, and takes pressure to squeeze out the water. It shines, not from being wet, but by having a flat reflective surface. Since I'm not now worried about ruining brushes I'm using my good acrylic brushes with the flat end and round ferrule plus some Series 7 pointed rounds. The flat end round ferrule style of brush isn't in the product sales catalogs any more :( It's a sign painters lettering brush. Cleaning a brush in vinegar will remove any remaining lime. |
| No pencil sketch, no lines. The border shows the only three colors used. One yellow, Indian Yellow B/s PY108, I don't have the O/s yet. Alizarin Crimson PR83 is a warm magenta plus Quinacridone. Magenta PR122, a cool magenta. Cyan is Thalo Blue PB15:1, I don't have the Blue/side PB15:6 Thalo Cyan Blue B/s yet. 
The background is very pale to test colors lightened with titanium white instead of transparent washes. |
The gray and black possibilities are endless
with these color combinations. 
My mortar will be smoother next time..
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My pale colors still have color, with lime paste or lime water they would be gone by now.
Two weeks later the colors were still perfect. Don't thin your pale colors with lime water, use titanium white. They did to use lime milk or lime putty to lighten colors but you can't see your final color while your painting. Use titanium white instead.
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